Toledo

Toledo is an ancient town surrounded on three sides by a river. It used to be a Moorish strong point until taken over by the Christians in the eleventh century. It is one of the few places in Spain where three religions (Christian, Muslim, and Judaism) co-existed at the same time. Many of the Moorish masques still stand, but after Alfonso I took control in 1085, many were turned into Christan cathedrals. We visited three main sites, Cathedral of Toledo, Alcazar, and a Jewish Synagogue.
One of the first places we visited was the Cathedral of Toledo. The Cathedral is as large and intricate as you would imagine any Medieval Cathedral to be. Throughout the halls, there are large red hats dangling down from the ceiling. They hang over the burials of the bishops who have chosen to be buried there. The hats hang in the air until they rot away. Some of them looked pretty old.

We were able to attend a nine o'clock mass on Saturday. It was peaceful. I did not understand a lot, ok any, of the symbolism of the rituals they were doing, but knowing they were doing them in reverence and remembrance of their God was enough. They used inscents a lot, like the old testiment where the smoke carriers their prayers unto God in the heavens. It almost smelled like old men. The bishops there, sang, it was beautiful.

The streets are tiny crawl spaces between buildings. Somehow cars still manage to go through them, beware as a pedestrian, they do not yield. Every time we heard a car rumbling nearby, we learned to throw ourselves to the sides of the walls or rush into near by entryways. One of my friends actually did get car waked. Don't worry, she came out ok.

The Alcazar is a large, square like fortress. It was closed for remodeling so we were not able to view the inside, but even from the street, the size and outer architecture can not hide its greatness. The walls seem to leap to the sky, and even from the far-off view it stands well above anything else in the city. One of the things I liked the best were the architecture of the outside walls. Since it was built over a long period of time, each wall is designed with a different style. Even from a few miles off it is a significant difference. In modern times it has been used as a military academy, and apparently was besieged by the Republicans in the Civil War (1930's).
The actual layout of the city is a complete disaster. Apparently, the early designers of the city wanted to wind the streets in a maze-like manner to slow down any enemies who were trying to reach the castle. I'm pretty sure that they reached their goal. Besides being unnavigable, the streets are about as big as an over-sized sidewalk. Somehow cars still manage to go through them. As a pedestrian, beware, the cars do not yield. Every time we heard a car rumbling nearby, we learned to throw ourselves to the sides of the walls or rush into near by entryways.
Besides for its religious artifacts, Toledo is also known for many other things including swords, marzipan, and some weird type of jewelry which I can't remember the name of. Steel production has been its main economic source for centuries. There were sword shops everywhere with every type of sword you can dream of. Lord of the rings, El Cid, Zorro, Arabian. They dangled from the walls and the ceilings like mirrors reflecting in the light. We met one sword maker named, Mariano Zamorano. His family has been in the sword business for the last 125 years. He is the fifth generation to be called Mariano Zamorano. I think its to make their trade mark (a sword with MZ on the side) a little more lasting. He is teaching his niece to carry on the trade now. Mariano knew everything about swords you could think of, he even tried to compare the perfect sword with the perfect woman. “What do you think makes a perfect woman?” he askes. Personality? Looks? Intelligence? (I was trying to saver some respectability for the female race). "No, No." he says. "For a perfect woman she needs to be easy to move and to escort, flexible with tasks and obstacles, and balanced with a stable mind." Mariano continues then to pull out a sword, "Like a woman, a sword needs to be light," tosses it in the air. "Flexible." Sticks the point in the floor and bends the blade like a C. "and balanced." Placing the ¾ portion of the blade on his finger and he rises it perfectly in the air. Yes, we were all sold.
The Marzapan is a sweet soft bread like sweet. We all came to the same conclusion that it resembles a wet, sweet cookie dough. It wasn't amazing! But it was different than anything I have tried before, I would definitely recommend it for a treat.
The art, which I unfortunately don't remember was called is found everywhere as well. We were able to catch an artisan in action in his shop. He was working on a small medallion for a necklace. The medallion piece was fastened to a stand under a light. With a small fine thread of gold in hand, he would position the tip of the thread on the surface and softly pound it into the material. He worked quickly and before we knew it – he had molded an entire geometric like design into this small necklace piece. It was amazing.
This was one of the first sites we have visited on our trip. I am still trying to find ways to really connect and understand the cites we are seeing. Sometimes it can be a bit overwhelming to see and be surrounded by so much historical significance. You hardly know what to do to 'truly' take it in and appreciate it. I think that is one of the things I am most worried about, not appreciating the history or significance enough. With that aside, I do feel that I learned a lot with our visit to Toledo. It was helpful having the three groups give their presentations. It was great information to know and facts that I wouldn't have looked up by myself. Background information truly does add a deeper meaning to what you see. I think that for this next trip I am going to do a little research of my own before we leave, so maybe I'll be able to understand these next sites even better.

Madre

Today Keri and I went running again. I love to run in the mornings when its is 'rociando' sprinkling. We got back and ready earlier than last time. We had hot milk and galletas ready – with a meridena (snack) to go. Encarne went to walk the dog before we left. Indy sleeps in the garage and has to be walked every morning although Eduardo usually does it.
..... Ok we just had dinner with Tia, muy divertida. Me cae muy bien, I was feeling pretty down because I felt so behind and falling in my spanish. Keri was out for a little bit, so I stayed in my room to study. I studied a few adjectives about flavors of food. I didn't know that I Was actually learning it! But at dinner I was able to use two of them. Tia moves around us like she was made to make us happy and meet our needs. Everything, - tienes hambre? Teienes frio? Quires mas? Quieres algo? So willing to do something for us. I am glad she is my tia. I try to make her laugh, it is very fun. I felt a little better about my espanol but I still have so much to learn.
We had hamburgeses for dinner, they were very ery good. And a secret recipe postre for dinner. It had flan in the middle and a fried outside. So good. We each had two. We each regret it now. But it was good. Tomorrow Keri has class at nine but I dont have it until 11:30, I might go with her in the morning anyway and do my hw? Or sleep in, run, and come later for class. But I think, since I have so much to do that I will go with her early.

Latino tunes

Edu (el hijo, mi hermano) showed me some of his latin music today. There was actually a lot of things like I liked. Of the ones I remeber, Pignoise (which is like a spanish rockband) El cabeza del loco (or something like that) and David Bisbol.

Bonding with the Fam

Hola Orta Vez!

I have been adjusting here to life in Espana. Yesterday a bunch of the group was going to Madrid to walk around the city. It sounded fun to go, but I decided that it wasn't something that I wanted, at least not know – to walk around with American kids to do and talk about Amerian things. (This is a social sacrifice I knew I was going to be willing to take) and so I decided to stay home instead. And it was a great choice! As it turned out, Keri and I talked and chatted and laughed with Encarne and Angel all night. It was so fun and the best thing for my spanish and experience that could have happened. It all started when I asked Encarne to help me with my espanol. We started from there, and soon we where drawing pitures on paper and asking questions and practicing phrases. When Angel came home, they showed us all of the music athat they have and we listened to a lot of that. They were especially proud of the Flamengo tunes. - really good, lol.
O we also found out that, they have TWO sons, not just Eduardo – an older one who got married in June. She showed us picures of the Boda (wedding). They were married in a catholic church and everyone looked very beautiful. In spain, they couple does not choose any specific colors for their wedding, everyone gets to wear what ever color they want. Most of the couples dressed to match each other, but beyond that everyone was wearing completely different colors! One bright green, another violet, and other aqua blue. Quite different from the U.S, I guess it would make weddings a lot easier. I think I have a tiny crush on their son eduardo- muy guapo. Encarne looked very pretty in all of the pictures, she thought so too. Other traditions that I thought were different: well the groom puts on the dress of the bride at the end of the reception...that was kinda strange. At the dinner there is a main table with the bride and groom in the middle and both parents on the sides. They cut and feed eachother the cake with a sword. (espada).
For dinner we had fried ham and cheese – almost like chicken corn on blue, with a tomate y queso ensalda. It was very good, I have never had a solo tomato salad anywhere else before but I am a big fan. O and then of course, they hit you the best for last – Arroz con leche – muy muy muy bien. Again, this mother is the best cook in the world, Keri and I were so blessed, we tell her that a lot. She heated the leache with naranje peels (orange) to capture the flavor. Amazingness in my mouth.
We also watched a little bit of tv before we went to bed. My favorite show here so far is a game show called, pasapalabra. Its fun because they read a definition really fast and the person has to guess what word it is. If they don't know, they call – pasapalabra- and it goes to the next person. When the subtitles are on its really good for reviewing vocabulary. They watch TV a lot here. Its interesting, something new to me. Its also weird because they are in love with all of these shows that are American! And are just dubbed over. I guess its all they have ever had so they don't know the difference, but for some reason I'm so bugged by it. Don't they know its not the real thing! Homer dosen't REALLY sound like that, ah so deprived. ' )

Las Tapas

Tonight was Tapas Night! Encarne and Angel were really excited to share this Spanish tradition with us. The meal is a combination of several different plates. You use your hands to eat a little bit of this and a little bit of that (but don't worry, it all adds up to a lot of everything). It was definetly a night of new things. The prepared bread with mayonnaise topped with shredded fish and baby shrimp (which was my favorite). Oysters topped with mayonnaise or lemon. Carminaa..ok I still don't know the name but werid long leggy things, and the best for last - Octapus! with real tenatcles and suction cups and - yea, it was the real thing. I loved all of it, I think I have eaten some of the best seafood there is in Spain. Me encanta this country! (the Octapus was a fav - you just couldn't think about it or look at the suction cups too long)

The Prado

We went to the Prado this morning. The Prado is one of the largest museums in the world, home of Valezquez and Gody, its exhibits are anything short from amazing. We went on the perfect day. The sun was shining, the air was fresh. It was 4 E for the entrance fee into the museum. There are three floors. We checked our bags and lunches at the door, they wont let you take pictures either so don't try. We walked through the exhibits for a good three hours. There was so much to see-and a lot of it good appear insignificant, and even to me I didn't know a lot about the artists or the styles of the times or what to look out for. But I found unique way to really enjoy what you are looking at instead of merely glancing and walking through aimlessly (which is always a risk when attending a museum). But to avoid such a tragedy, I walked around with a small notebook and pen in my hand. I would enter a room and scan through its elements, searching for something striking or intriguing. If I found such a thing I would nonchalantly sketch it in my notebook. This way by the end of the night I had a collage of things that I had seen and been impressed by. A great way to enjoy a museum, I recommend it.
The Parque De Bueno Resta (ok not correctly spelled but you get the idea)
After lunch, we all gathered to find a place to enjoy our comida in the beautiful sunshine. Not far form the museum is a park called the park of good rest. It is pretty much the most amazing thing I have seen in the world. The park is huge, with pruned trees and hedges and trails running every which way. A large lake in the middle with rowboats for rent. People walking and sitting and roller blading and kissing (its spain) and just being! and the trees with the grass and teh sun...some of the girls in our group had the right idea and plopped down in the middle of a plot of grass to have a siesta. We kept going however after an hour of meandering throughout the trails. There was still much to be seen though so know it will be a place revisited. We passed through the calles of Perta del Sol, Plaza Mayor and Gran Via. Brooke was on the hunt for shoes and found some really gu'y ones at a zapatos store. I also made my first spain purchase - a torros window sticker for your car. Its small and lightweight so I thought it would be perfect for sending through the mail. I owe someone a birthday present soon so I thought I would be prepared. I also bought a postcard.
Plaza Mayor
A social gathering point. The Plaza is surrounded by a large five story building which I think is now used as a hotel, and with the exception of a statue in the middle of the square it is completely open. People have spread to accompany the space. Small artist posts dot the sides, two restaurants elegantly laid out tease toward the center. Random couples sit directly on the cobblestone to chat in the shine of the day. A woman covered in mud poses as a statue for a the transient audience. I stop to watch a man paint a canvas. He scoops up large puddles of paint from the pails with his scapel. Scraping the color unto a slate he then continues to apply as necessary to the propped surface. "scrap,scrap,scrap" Almost magically a figure appears before your eyes. The man turns in his smock still holding the scapel. I think he was used to the audience but I felt discovered so I moved on.
We continued on past the plaza. There were people everywhere, I felt so much to be discovered. To be lost in such a beautiful mess would have been a wonderful thing. We were nearing the end of the adventure as people wanted to go home and rest. I could have stayed all day.
Cena
Once we returned I watched TV with the Padres for a while. I like listening to the spanish, I think I am getting better. Then they made dinner - ribs, sausage, and chiscabobs -the meat only kind. Encarne did mention that in Spain the ribs are never served conneccted like in Ameraice, they are always cut into slices for smaller pieces. O, but dont forget the pan and tomato salad. O another odd thing - fruit after every meal - I didnt know it was a custom.
I have a lot of HW to do today that I haven't done yet. You think there would ahve been a ton of time to do it this week, but that in lies the problem. There is just to much to see too much to do.

I apologize for the erroneous typing today, I am tired and spell check is not one of my fortes.

Madrid, the city

I went to Madrid today for the first time. IT was breathtaking. I have been to big cities before but there was nothing to prepare me for what was to come. The life and hustle of New York, but the beauty and culture of London (?) We just walked one street, La Gran Via and saw centuries of architecture, So much life and style and grandeur was captured in a little strip of the city walk. The lower floors have gathered soot and grit from the streets giving them a gray tint. This in result created a scale of brightness with the dull parts of buildings at the bottom growing brighter and taller as you look up, causing your eyes to constantly be lifted to the skies. The daylight was great and the nice warm air was inviting to naked hands and eager glances. It grew dusk but the masses of pasearos grew larger. We walked through two plazas, great big open areas surrounded by stores and shopping. Along the way though, Madrid mixes the beauties of the nature and the city all into one great wonderful experience. There are fountains placed in middle of intersections, we passed through one park with two fountains and a olive grove with huge statues. The best part was they were free to be climbed on and sat and used- kids and tourists taking pictures adorned the marble base like birds nested on a telephone line.
We went into small panaderia by the Puerta de Sol. It was almost like a fast food restaurant but with fifteen servers behind the counter all waiting to serve you immediately with what you want. People would stay right there by the counter, standing up, to eat their sweet treasures.
We also went into a few shoe shops- i really love madrid shoes and have come to the conclusion that i want to buy some.
By eight o clock we all met back at the train station, I was exhausted. It had been a physically demanding day. I don't know how I stayed awake on the half hour train ride home. Tia made green beans with oil and garlic, amazing deviled eggs with tuna and tomate. I also finished off my bag of peanut brittle.

Disco

We went to the disco-teca last night! It was quite the American experience. A bunch of us, about seventeen, met at the Plaza de Cervantes at 11:0. None of us knew the exact location for a dance club but we figured it wouldn't be that hard to find. On the other side of the Plaza, not far from us there was another group of students (I think from the University of Maryland) gathering to do the same thing. They actually had a place in mind so we jsut went with them. We actually ended up going to two differnt clubs, both smoke filled and blasting American pop stars. The funnest part was taht each place, it was the sober BYU crowd dancing it of as teh life of the party. Woo! Go mormon spirit! The dancing was incredible, and it was such a relief to jump and shout to English lyrics. I think that was the most satisfying part. It wasn't tell er walked home that we realized how bad we smelled. Ew! I hope Tia can get the smell out. Ok, funny story of the night: Keri and I got home around two, but we couldn't open the door. For some reason the key would not go in. We couldn't understand! We tried everything, even the garage but to no avail. I was up to kicking it on the doorstep for the night, but Keri (the more sensible of the two) had to pee and didn't think they would want us to be in the cold all night anyway. At first we knocked a little. Listened, no sound. Time for bigger measures: doorbell. BEEEEEEEEEEK. It seemed like it never stopped resounding in the silence. Oh no, I though, they are going to hate us! A little while after, we heard the upstairs window crack, saw a head appear, then shortly after heard footsteps on the stairs. As it turns out, Eduardo had left his keys in teh lock when we got home, thats why our keys hadn't worked. Tia was not upset at all, I was so releived it wasn't something we ahd done. We went to bed without showering so I think I need to wash my sheets.

Hermanas Hoy

I went out with the Hermanas today, just a few appointments but was really fun. I had asked them at church if I could come along with them one time. I don't know what people do when they go out with the missionaries, but I've wanted to do it since El Salvador when the missionaries there invited us to accompany them. Plus what better way to speak spanish and meet native Spaniards? WE visited a older woman nammed Lydia, I don't know why she wanted the missionaries over. She is from chile but spoke with the thickest '-theta' that I have ever heard. It was hard to follow, I think that she has or hasn't beent to church in seven years, couldn't catch which, she dosent think that the saints chould be worshiped as gods they were only prophets and... anyway the hermanas also asked me to share my testimony with her while we were there. yea..great times. It was really hard I don't even know what I said, but it felt good when it was over. One of the Hermanas, Hermana Rice, is really new to the area and her spanish is still not very good. She spoke in church on sunday and I remember not being very impressed - but today, I saw her - be amazing. She would not let her lack stop her from trying. She poke slowly but persistently. When she felt the psirit during the lesson she jumped in even when it wasnt her turn. And when she bore her testimony, it was powerful. I couldn't understand it, but I could feel it. I went to two otehr citas with them before I left but both no one else was home. I hope taht they will invite me out with them again it was a great experience.

Las Primeras Cosas de Espana

Hola Mis Amigos!

I am here in Spain, safe and sound. Already I have so many things to say and tell about. I am living in a small house with Keri Anderson, an other girl from my group.

La Familia: We live with a woman, Encarne (si, like the meat) her husband, Angel (si, like the celestial being) and their son Eduardo (who is twenty, plays futbol, works, and goes to school). Before I came, I was very worried about what my family would be like. I didn't know it they would be happy for us to be there, or if we would be a burden to them. Also if they would be patient with my infant Spanish. I must have done something Really good before I left, because I have been given the best familia ever. They are nice and patient and loving and understanding. They do not speak any English, and when Encarne picked us up she told us there would be No Iglesia en su casa! She wants us to learn Spanish, and speaking it, she says, is the only way to do it. They also have a dog, named Indy (short for India)
The House: The house is small and has four floors. The main floor consists of a bathroom, kitchen, and living room. The next floor has three bedrooms and a bathroom, and the top floor is an attic where there is a tv, table, computer, drying rack para las ropa, and exercise equipment. They also have a garage underneath the main floor. I know, it sounds big, but somehow they manage to do a lot with a little space. Its also interesting, because they are planning to move to a smaller house in a year because they say the house now is to big.
All the floors are tile and wood. I am glad I brought slippers. Before I used them however, I was just wearing my socks and she (mi mama o Encarne) kept telling me my feet were cold and if I wanted slippers (zapatillas).
They have a small basin in the bathroom. Keri and I aren't sure what its function is. So far we have bets going for urinal or buttock washer. Any insights are welcome.
La Comida: I'm not sure what to think about hte food yet. We have tried lots of new things while we have been here. First off, they eat three main meals a day: desayuno, comida, y cena. Comida (lunch- and yes I know it is also translated as food - but thats what they call it!) is usually at 2 or 3. Cena is eaten much later at 8 or 9. Tonight we finished eaten around 9:45. For breakfast we had hot milk and cookies. For lunch, which is typically the big meal of the day we had Pelle (??) very flavorful rice with some kind of seafood. It had small baby shrimp ? (i don't even know the English words) and then some grande shrimp things. The one she gave me had these huge blacks yes and pointy moustache. To eat them, you break it in the middle, peal off the skin and eat the insides. I am into trying new things but I was surprised when I actually liked it! We also had a small ensalda that had tomatoes and lettuce drizzled with a oil dressing. For dinner, Mama made Tortilla de Espana. A common Spanish dish made of potatoes and eggs. It is made in a sauce pan on one side as whole cake and then flipped to cook the other side. It is actually something that I had tried to make at home before I came here. I asked Encarne if I could watch her make it so that I could become better at it. She laughed but said sure. She showed me all of the steps she took.
they eat fruit after every meal. There is a large drawer of apples, oranges, and bananas that they keep in the fridge and pull out when the first part of the meal is gone. And then right when you think all the fun is over - surpresa! - they surprise you with the dulce. Muchas Muchas dulces! cookies, pastries, chocolates, Encarne is always offering us the 'best chocolate' (major chocolate) and other great treats that she got from the Christmas sales. I think I am going to gain winter tuck this semester.
La Iglesia: The church is not far from our house. Encarne and Angel are not mormon but they know many members and have been to church before. Good for us because they offered us a ride. (many of our friends were not so lucky and we passed many walking in the cold - heh heh heh) (o - and it is cold here. I am very glad I sacrificed the space to bring my coat. Its been in the low thirties so far.)The ward is a decent size. We go to a family ward and our girls about doubled the relief society (well there are thirty of us, so thats understandable) There is a single adults class. I didn't understand everything he said, but I could tell it was good when he started writing comparisons of Lord of the Rings and the Book of Mormon on the board. All of the people seemed happy and friendly. Encarne actually has three nephews in the ward - they are very nice. Not a lot of people went out of there way to talk to us but I felt welcome. There are eight groups of missionaries in this ward. I asked one group of sisters if I could go out with them some time. They said sure and gave me their number to call. I want to try to do that this week.
Acala: Acala is the city that we live in. It is a suburb -ish part of Madrid. The streets are small and quaint and very clean. There are lots or small park-like areas throughout. we live very close to three and we took Indy for a walk in one this afternoon. I know it is the middle of winter, but I was surprised at the lack of green vegetation. I guess I was expecting something more like El Salvador or at least Virginia - but tis more like Utah - small trees, no grass and kinda brown. Nothing breath taking yet but I like it. We also live very close to a mall, and apparently the biggest sales of the year are going on now. we'll have to check it out later.

I am also very blessed that they have wireless at there house. Hopefully, since this is the case, I will have more opportunity to upkeep this blog. I have lots more to say but its about 11:30 now, and although the family is still up I need to go to bed to wake up early tmw. Keri and I are going running.
Hasta luego.
Susie

My Goal

My goal:

1. not to build relationships with the people in my group (although that would be nice), but to spend time with to bond with natives - non American - Spanish speakers.